Tambopata River

Having arrived very late the previous night from Machu Picchu, we did not rush out into the streets of Cuzco in the morning, and instead enjoyed a slow breakfast at Rumi Punktu. Knowing how much taxis cost, our taxi ride to the airport was about a quarter of the cost of that from the airport. Knowledge is power, or just saves money... The flight took us over the Andes, their eastern slopes and finally over the flatland jungle near our destination, Puerto Maldonado.

We were met at the airport by a van from Wasai Expeditions. They took us to their Puerto Maldonado lodge where we would leave some of our luggage. The rest would come with us on a boat to Wasai Tambopata Lodge. We met Paul, our guide for the next four days. He started pointing out animals already on the stairs to a boat launch area just below the lodge. There was a sloth in a tree there. It was still there when we came back three days later. It might still be there. Sloths are known to move slowly.

We started down Madre de Dios River but soon turned up its tributary, Tambopata River. It is some four hours to the Wasai Lodge even though the distance as the crow flies from Puerto Maldonado is only some 30 miles. The river meanders a lot. It was a speedy ride at about 20 miles an hour most of the way except for a few shallow places where our driver would have to slow down and look for the best route.

We received lunch on the boat. Its packaging was unique and stylish. Rice with chicken or fish came wrapped in a banana leaf. At times, the boat would slow down when one of the guides spotted an animal near the river banks - we saw caymans and capibaras. Our first stop was at a check point near the boundary of the Tambopata National Reserve. We had to sign in at the ranger station and received a great looking stamp in our passports. Paul found a monkey in a nearby tree. Green macaws were hard to miss as they tend to be quite noisy wherever they are. I shook off a tick from my forearm. There was more movement in low branches of a tree. It a was a green tree snake - quite long and very thin. It was interesting to see it move effortlessley throught branches as it quickly climbed out of sight.

The sun had already set when we reached the lodge. The airy design of the social area and the walkways made of brazil nut shells caught my attention first. With all the travel warning still fresh on my mind, I could not help but wonder upon walking into our room. The planks of wood with gaps between them would hardly stop any insects from coming in. At least our bed had a mosquito net. There were candles to use outside of hours - from 7 to 10 when lights were on. There was no hot water. I had not had a cold shower in a long time. A shadow of doubt crawled in. (Read on - Wasai Tambopata lodge was a great place to stay!)

The two of us and Paul and another bigger group with their guide headed out for a walk in the jungle after the dinner. Everyone was armed with a flashlight or a headlamp and tried to spot something interesting. It was mostly the guides who had any luck at that - finding various insects. The biggest catch of the night was a big black tarantula.