A town that dates back to the 16th century, beaches, and rain forests of Serra da Bocaina national park, all that is Paraty... Its mystery starts with the spelling of its name and both -i and -y can be found. The name was given to it by Gualanas Indians that inhabited the area and means the river of fish. Its main attraction is a colonial part that has not changed much in 250 years. The surrounding Costa Verde, green coast, does credit to its name. Lush rainforests cover mountains that rise right behind the city and reach more than 4000ft high. Beaches in the nearby town of Trinidad are well known and there are many secluded beaches reachable by boat.
From Sao Sebastiao, we continued on the scenic Sao Paulo State road 101 along the coastline toward Caraguatatuba. Antonini recommended droving up SP-099 , Rodovia dos Tamoios, from there up the slopes of Serra do Mar. It is a winding road that quickly rises to 800m through Atlantic rainforests. Moisture coming from the Atlantic gets lifted by the mountains and clouds are formed shrouding the steep mountain slopes. The surrounding vegetation reflects this constant streem of moisture. It brought back memories of cloud forests in Costa Rica.
After coming back down from the clouds, we continued along the coast through Ubatuba toward Parati. It is a bit over 200km from Sao Sebastiao to Parati, but the winding road and, most importantly, countless speed bumps, just like the previous day, made it seem like a longer drive. Subjectively, the most interesting part of it came toward the end just before leaving the state of Sao Paolo. The highway leaves much of the civilization behind and passes through long uninterrupted sections of the Atlantic forest before descending toward Parati in the state of Rio de Janeiro.
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| Truck | Bananas | Into the clouds | Cloud highway | Rolling clouds | Highway SP-099 |
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| Left turn | Left turn and a truck | Traffic in the forest | Fern | Fern | Fern |
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| Speed bumporama |
After settling in at Pousada Corsario in Parati, we set out to explore colonial streets of the town. Lights soon came on in colorful shops and numerous restaurants and bars looked quite inviting. After having a dinner at one and stopping for an absinth drink at another, we were drawn in by live music into another bar. The music by Andre&Marilde was realy good and I am not sure how many of the the kiwi cocktails we ended up having...
Given our limited time in Parati and unfamiliarity with the surrounding attractions, we opted for a tour on the next day. For 60 Reals, we were ferried by a jeep to a few highlights of the area. A short hike through the rain forest took us to Pedra Branca's waterfall. The next stop at the Tarza waterfall featured a Tarzan-style swing over a pool of water.
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| Flowers | Pedra Branca's waterfall | ||||
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| Mushrooms | Aluminum can tree | Pooch | Paraty Tours jeep | Fern | |
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| Tarza falls | Swinging | Tarzan Irina | Tarzan Irina | Or is it Jane? | |
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| Blooming plant | Bromeliad | Fern | Fern in BW | Jeep |
A ride further up the hill took us to Pedra Branca Cachaca distillery. They showed us the whole process of cachaca making - from growing the sugar cane, cutting it, to fermentation and distillation. Free samples were offered to keep us warm and entice us into buying some more.
A stop at the restaurant Villa Verde featuring Italian cuisine was an oportunity to have lunch and do some birding in the surrouding garden. One can slide down the smooth rocks of the Toboga waterfall for a bit of an adrenaline rush. It was cloudy and relatively chilly, and with no spare clothes to change into, we passed. Another cachaca distillery, Engenho D'our, and the nearby beginning of the Gold Trail was the second to last stop of the tour. An orchid exhibit finished off the colorful tour.
It was a beautiful morning. The sun came out and lit up the colorful boats and streets of Parati...
It was hard to leave Paraty after enjoying the beautiful morning. We reluctantly set out on our drive back to Rio. It is some 250 scenic kilometers on Highway 101. The highway travels between the Atlantic dotted with islands and rainforest covered mountains. The rainforests seemed particularly lush just north of Paraty and there is little in the way of civilization. After a while, we made a stop in a sleepy beach town of Tarituba. Still north from there, the coast is more densely populated, one of the most scenic spots is curiously marred by the sole Brazilian nuclear power plant, Angra Nuclear Power Plant. The civilization gets denser toward Angra dos Reis, but the never-ending scenery continues until the highway leaves the coast west of Rio. With the nice weather, the call of the Corcovado Mountain got particularly strong and that is where we headed next.
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| A rare red car on Hwy 101 | Tarituba boat | Tarituba locals | School decoration | Angra Nuclear Power Plant | Road scenery |
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